Through the winding cobblestone streets,
Romancing the ancient splendour and beauty,
Whispering unadulterated dreams in the surrounding mist,
Oh! Czech! Pulling me like unapologetic vanity.
Czech Republic is the diamond in the pearl necklace of the European cities. Melting pot of medieval history, spunk lifestyle, expansive throw of art and architecture, dreamy love and brutal conservatives of the past carrying caricatures of hate and restrictions.
6 Whacky Days in Czech Republic and a Bucket-full of Cheat Codes.
- The Czechs do not like being called Eastern Europeans. Eager to carve a unique niche for themselves, they insist on being referred to as part of Central Europe. There’s a reason behind the seemingly haughty pride. Their country is just too fabulous.
- The Czech flag consists of red, blue and white. The colours stand for the following: Red (blood shed for freedom), Blue (imperiality & sovereignty) and White (traditional Bohemian colour and also represents sky.
- Czech Republic (Prague being the capital) has its own currency Czech Crown, Koruna, which is 100 CZK = 4 EUR/5 USD/ 258 INR. Czech Republic is the richest you will feel in the entire Europe.
- Swear by comfortable shoes in Czech; it being a small country, most of it can be covered by foot.
- Most of Czech's beauty is in strolling the streets and admiring the beautiful architecture; which means 'fascination in Czech' is not bound by moolah!
- Tipping is 10%, though by Czech standards this rate is considered generous. Tipping in bars, restaurants, taxis, and beauty and massage parlours is customary.
- "Czech reds are not good." White wines make 70% of the Czech production of wines, which probably assimilates the wisdom that whites are Czech's forte.
- Czechs are the heaviest consumers of beer in the world. And with all that practice, you can be sure that they are pretty good at making it too. After all, the world-renowned Pilsen is a product of the Czech Republic. Plus, beer is cheap here, very cheap.
- One can not get more free spirited that in Czech. Mother of black humour, Czech has no close competitors. Their artefacts, slogans and pop culture is literally raining sardonic humour.
- Czech, country of castles (around 2000 of them), has the the largest castle in the world - The Prague Castle.
- The country is renowned for its numerous spa towns, especially along the border with Saxony (Germany). The most famous ones are those of Karlovy Vary (Karlsbad), Františkovy Lázně (Franzensbad) and Teplice.
My Czech Adventure was divided between:
Prague - 3 days;
Cesky Krumlov - 1 day
Karlovy Vary - 1 day and;
Kutna Hora - 1 day.
PRAGUE - Not A City But An Entity Of A Kind
Having been spared much of the worst of World War II and put in a state of arrested development during the Cold War, Prague has one of the best preserved old cities in all of Europe. The best months to visit Prague are from May to September. The weather is often quite pleasant with temperatures in the 20s°C, sunny or partly sunny skies, and mild evenings.
The Essential Sights in Prague:
Charles Bridge
Prague’s most iconic bridge is an essential first stop. Arriving here at dawn, which is of course one of the busiest times on the bridge, it was nevertheless very special. I again returned to the bridge early in the morning and absorbed the moist mist and fragrant air.
Castle District
The Castle District is of course home to the Prague Castle, but also home to the winding cobblestone streets Prague is famous for, and loads of cute antique stores to rummage through.
Golden Lane – Playground for Alchemists
Located within the grounds of the Prague Castle is the mysterious Golden Lane, so called because, according to legends, alchemists had to look on this street to find a reaction to turn ordinary materials into gold. Despite the streets name, it is debated whether alchemists ever worked or lived here. Czech-Jewish writer Franz Kafka used a house on the street for around two years as he enjoyed the peaceful environment it provided whilst writing.
Changing of the Guard
Arrive at the castle before midday to ensure a good view and watch the ceremonial changing of the guard including a fanfare and flag ceremony. The guards technically serve only the president of the Czech Republic and have some rather strict recruiting requirements including the specification that a guard must be between 1.78 and 1.88 meters tall to serve. The uniforms worn by the guards are unique to the castle guards and are light blue in summer and dark blue in winter.
Prague Astronomical Clock
Over on the other side of the bridge is the Old Town and Prague’s famous Astronomical Clock. The Prague Astronomical Clock, which for 600 years has been one of the greatest treasures of the city, still amazes people with its procession of Apostles, moving statues and visualization of time like no other instrument in the world.
St Vitus Cathedral
Another city icon – St Vitus Cathedral is a favourite for many visitors to Prague due to its’ unique baroque architecture. The Cathedral looks particularly lust-worthy in the evenings when it lights the sky.
Prague Dancing House
Another popular modern-day favourite is the Prague Dancing House, which also goes by the name “The Fred & Ginger House”. Located on the Vltava, it’s a short 20 minute walk out of the way but entirely worth it for a pleasant stroll out of the tourist centre.
Josefov
Prague’s Jewish quarter is one of the best insights into Jewish history you will find in all of Europe. There’s so much to see and experience here, such as the Jewish Cemetery; Old New Synagogue; and Prague Jewish Museum.
Wenceslas Square
If you’re up for a spot of shopping, head straight for Wenceslas Square. Here you will find loads of international brands, ranging from Zara; H&M; Mango; Nike; Adidas; and many more.
Petrín Park
Petrín Park is the city’s biggest and most beautiful park, with sweeping views of Prague. You’ll find a garden, a maze, and a lookout tower that looks like the Eiffel Tower. Keep in mind that this park is on a big hill and walking to the top can be strenuous. There is a funicular that can take you down (and up) the hill if you don’t feel like making the trek.
Petrín Hill
Petrin is a hill on the left bank of the Vltava River, it offers great views of the city and is one of the greenest spaces in Prague. It is a pleasant walk to the top of the hill and there are plenty of benches to rest your legs on whilst admiring the view on the way up. Alternatively, you can ride the funicular railway from the lesser quarter all the way to the top of Petrin Hill. At the summit, you will find a miniature version of the Eiffel Tower, landscaped gardens and the unusual Church of St Michael, a wooden building relocated from Ukraine.
John Lennon Wall
Head down towards Kampa, a neighbourhood by the river, and visit the John Lennon Wall. Toward the end of Communism in the 1980s, students started writing John Lennon lyrics on this wall as a way to air their grievances. Today, the wall represents love and peace. Tourists are allowed to write or paint on it too.
Letná Park
This park, across the river from the Jewish Quarter, features several walking trails, a café, and expansive views of the city. You’ll see a lot of art students painting the cityscape. Cross over to Chotkovy sady for beautiful gardens and rear views of the Prague Castle. It’s quiet, with secluded paths that make for an intimate romantic stroll.
Vyšehrad
While Prague Castle gets all the love, Vyšehrad, located in the southern part of the city, was also one of the original castles of the kings of Prague. It was built around the 10th century and contains Prague’s oldest surviving building, the Rotunda of St Martin.
Powder Tower
Back in town, be sure to check out this medieval tower, one of the original 13 city gates. Construction began in 1475 and, during the 17th century, the tower used to store gunpowder. It was heavily damaged in 1757 and most of the sculptures on it were replaced in 1876.
Franz Kafka Museum
The dark, immersive gallery of the Franz Kafka Museum exhibits the author’s personal artifacts next to eerie representations of his ideas. The museum plays between the lines of fact and fiction, reality and fantasy, to illustrate how Kafka was affected by Prague, and in turn how the city was shaped by his writing about it.
Concert/Play at the National Theatre
The National Theatre in Prague is a stunning neo-Renaissance building. It is set majestically by the Vltava River, instantly recognisable on sunny days by its golden roof gleaming in the sunshine. I saw the celebrated play - 'Madame Butterfly' here. Madam Butterfly is one of opera’s most enduring tales of unrequited love. With its breathtaking mix of cinematic images, traditional Japanese theatre, colourful costumes and stunning sets, Anthony Minghella’s Olivier Award-winning production has been hailed as 'the most beautiful show of the year'.
Old Town Square
Despite Prague’s lively history of invasions, the Old Town Square has remained relatively untouched since the 10th Century. Swarms of tourists crowd the historical streets, packing out the alfresco restaurants everyday. The square itself is the perfect place to admire the wonderful architecture Prague has to offer and if that isn’t your thing then the various street performers, musicians and merchants that line the streets here will certainly keep you entertained.
Infant Jesus of Prague
Located in the Mala Strana in the heart of the city, the Infant Jesus of Prague (also known as the Child of Prague) is a Roman Catholic statue of Jesus Christ as an infant. Everyday hundreds of believers pay a visit to this shrine to pray, bow and make wishes hoping that they will come true. The statue itself is encased in an ornate gilded shrine and while the origin of the figure is unknown, it has been dated back to the 16th Century.
Seven Foot Tall Sigmund Freud
Walk through the sublime urban area of Stare Mesto within the Old Town of Prague and look to the sky. You will be surprised to find a seven foot tall sculpture of the world famous psycho-analyst Sigmund Freud hanging from a metal beam above the cobbled streets at your feet. The unusual artwork has proven so popular that it has been exhibited in cities all over the world including Chicago, London and Berlin. Often mistaken for a suicide attempt, the sculpture has also been responsible for several calls to the emergency services since its creation.
Farmer’s Market
Nestled upon the river embankment just underneath the fortress of Vysehrad, gourmets would be wise to visit this farmer’s market, which pops up every Saturday. Blend in with the locals as you experience some of the best food (and sights) that the city has to offer. The market usually offers seasonal vegetables, freshly baked bread and cakes, pickles and preserves along with sausages and other specialist meats. Enjoy your bounty whilst sitting by the riverside and watching the people of Prague go about their Saturdays.
Communism Museum
Europe is a continent rich in history and political turmoil and the Czech Republic does not buck that trend. The country was a communist nation from 1948 until the Velvet revolution of 1989. Under communist rule, more than 200,000 Czechs were arrested and 327 shot dead as they attempted to flee the country. Inside the communism museum you will find photographs, films and even sculptures documenting the state-sponsored terrorism that occurred under communist rule.
Night life of Prague
Prague’s nightlife has it all. World renowned for its jazz and classical music, there are many live music venues in Prague that can provide a good evening of entertainment. Take a stroll down the riverside and arrive at JazzDock which draws some of the best local jazz musicians. For serious clubbers, the Cross Club is an industrial nightclub in every sense of the word. Located in an industrial setting, the interior is a must-see jumble of gadgets, shafts and cranks, many of which move to the music.
Eat and Drink in Prague:
Favourite Food to Try:
- Trdelník, or chimney cakes: Made of rolled yeast dough that is wrapped around a stick and roasted over an open flame until golden brown and crispy on the outside, and tender and gooey in the middle. The hot dough is then brushed with butter and rolled around in a cinnamon-sugar and nut mixture.
- Svickova with Dumplings: The dish consists of sirloin beef that has been marinated and braised a day in advance. The meat is then covered in a root vegetable cream sauce and served with bread dumplings, a slice of lemon, cranberry sauce, and a dollop of unsweetened whipped cream.
- Chlebíčky: Open-faced sandwiches topped with in numerous combinations of spreads, garnishes, cold cuts and cheeses.
- Koláče - The Czech kolač is a pastry filled with poppy seeds, fruit jams, nuts or sweet cheese.
- Pivo (beer) - It’s no secret Czechs know beer and do it well. You’ll find opportunities for drinking the world-renowned golden pilsners around every corner of Prague.
- Kulajda soup: Soup (polevka) is very popular in Czech cuisine. Kulajda, or “dill” soup is one of our favourites. With potatoes, forest mushrooms, cream, dill and garnished with poached eggs, it’s a hearty and delicious combination!
- Kofola: The Czechoslovak Traditional Love Cola, there’s a lot of history bottled up in this herbal cola.
- Medovník: You can’t really choose the wrong cake in the Czech Republic but this one and its layers upon layers of honey and nut goodness consistently steals our heart.
Places for a Meal:
- The number one recommendation for where to eat in Prague was Lokál.
- VinoGraf - Off-the-beaten-path wine bar serving only Czech wines.
- U Medvídku - Traditional Czech food with delicious soup and goulash.
- Las Adelitas - Delicious and authentic Mexican food for those with a fiery palate.
- Prague Beer Museum - This place has a wide selection of beer and good food with large portions.
- Aromi - Best Italian Restaurant in Prague, specialising in Fish delicacies.
- Cafe Louvre has been in business since 1902 and has welcomed famous thinkers such as Albert Einstein and Franz Kafka.
- Naše Maso is known as Prague’s best butcher shop, but they also have a kitchen that serves simple, traditional Czech meals at reasonable prices.
- Zvonice is an award-winning restaurant located in the top of a belltower and features gorgeous views of Prague’s skyline. The menu features Old Czech dishes along with elegant fare such as wild game, escargots and pâtés and terrines.
Coffee and Snack Places:
- Prague coffee shops serves great coffee and reasonably priced lunches and snacks during the day.
- Proti Proudu bistro combines cool design with really nice breakfasts and sandwiches.
- Cafe Lounge serves consistently solid coffee, a daily soup all day and popular lunch specials.
- Maskrtnica arguably is the best baker in the city.
- Sisters bistro which serves “chlebicek”, the classic Czech open-faced sandwiches.
- Perníčkův Sen, the owners make gingerbread and regional Czech cookies using the traditional recipe of honey, butter, nuts, and warm spices.
Bars:
- Strahov Monastic Brewery - The brewery dates back to the 17th century and still brews beer using traditional recipes from long ago. Order the unfiltered St. Norbert beer in either dark or amber.
- Lokál, a chain of pubs that serves Pilsner Urquell straight from the tank. It’s the freshest beer you’ll ever have and one of the most delicious.
- Lucerna Music Bar - One of the largest and most popular music clubs in Prague is located right next to the Wenceslas square, in a multipurpose complex dating from the beginning of 20th century.
- One Club Prague - Locals love it because they can meet an international crowd of people and it is not just your standard Czech place. Its really cool looking with bottle service and nice booths! Definitely not something you normally find in Prague.
- Ku Bar & Lounge - It's right in the center, and they have variety of parties daily with special deals. Also there is shisha and food. A lot of international people and locals mix in this place. Every day it is full. I recommend checking it out.
- Cross Club - One of the coolest clubs with drum 'n' bass, dubstep, techno or house! It is very special place with original (and little bit psychedelic:) decoration. Everything is from metal and everything is moving... Apart from two music stages there are many smaller or bigger rooms where you can enjoy your beer, chat with friends or play table football.
ČESKY KRUMLOV: A Fairytale Town In Czech Republic
Just 2 hours drive from Prague, Český Krumlov literally looks like something out of a fairytale with the huge castle overlooking the picturesque, magical old town and the Vltava river winding its way around it. The narrow, labyrinth-like lanes (though admittingly, it’s not handicap friendly) make you feel like you’re walking in an old Disney film.
The construction of the town and castle on the Vltava River began way back in the 13th Century, as the Vltava River was an important point on the trade route. Over the years it has been passed through varying royal families, and even seized by the Nazis as part of the Sudetenland. Once the War was over, the German speaking part of the population were forced out and Cesky Krumlov was returned to Czechoslovakia – which of course eventually peacefully split into the Czech Republic and Slovakia.
Most visitors set their sight on the mighty castle. It’s one of the most beautiful and well-preserved castles in Europe, the second largest in the Czech Republic, with magnificent and elaborate exterior facades, forty buildings and palaces, situated within five courts. The castle itself offers many sights, yet the most striking one for us was the colourful round tower, featuring a 162-step climb to the top, from where you have an amazing 360° view.
The town itself is also incredibly festive throughout the year, with many music festivals, concerts and balls held in all seasons. In the summer many travellers pass through the town and spend weeks and weekends camping along the Vltava River, all the while rafting further down stream.
With its simple charm and wonderful medieval feel, Český Krumlov is not only a well deserved UNESCO World Heritage Site, but exactly the kind of quite, small town in Europe that many people dream of experiencing.
KARLOVY VAR - Spa Town of Czech Republic
Karlovy Vary is a spa town in the west Bohemian region of Czech Republic, a two hour drive from Prague. It is the largest spa in the Czech republic and is famous for their 12 springs of curative mineral waters and developed during the centuries as one of the most luxurious destinations of political and cultural personalities: Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Ludwig van Beethoven, Franz Kafka, Alphonse Mucha, Casanova, Goethe, Schiller even Karl Marx and many representatives of the world film industry who come to Karlovy Vary as guests of the International Film Festival held every year in July.
The city's best-known sights are the Church of St. Andrew, the orthodox Church of Sts. Peter and Paul, the Municipal Theatre, the Mill Colonnade (Mlýnská kolonáda) and the Cathedral of St. Mary Magdalene.
Karlovy Vary is surrounded by romantic hilly countryside – the foothills of Krušné hory, lies in a green valley of the river Teplá (meaning "Warm") and its setting alone gives it an atmosphere of beauty and peace. Enjoy walk along the “Park Colonnade” and the river “Teplá”. There are over 60 mineral springs ranging from 10 C to 73.6C (50F - 165F). 13 of these springs are located along our route and you can sample them all, if you like. The strongest is the Vřídlo spring, rising from the depth of 2,000-3,000 metres. The temperature reaches 73° C.
Since Karlovy Vary is a spa town, it is filled with a number of hot springs. The water from the springs are said to have healing properties. People actually spend days here. While we were there, we saw people buy mugs from a nearby kiosk and kept filling and drinking the water from the springs as they walked. There are springs all over the place ... each at a different temperature. Our mug ... well (a shot glass to be precise) looked like this. The water tasted like warm sparking water!
KUNTA HORA - The City of Silver
The sleepy Bohemian town of Kutná Hora is only a short bus ride from Prague. Kutná Hora was founded in 1142 and went on to become the second richest city in the Kingdom of Bohemia.
Below the town lies miles of exhausted silver mines, which in their prime, helped Kutná Hora compete economically and politically with Prague. Bohemia’s Royal Mint was here, converting Kutná Hora’s silver into coins that were used all over central Europe. Eventually the mines were depleted, some flooded, and the town that once was a favourite residence of Bohemian kings, quickly dwindled.
Kutna Hora is listed with UNESCO as a World Heritage Site for the Church of St Barbara and the Cathedral of Our Lady at Sedlec and these are worthy the trip alone. But the unlikely show-stealer is often the macabre but fascinating “Bone Church.” In fact, the Bone Church is the Kostnice or Charnel House of Sedlec. Sedlec is technically its own little community but abuts the slightly larger town of Kutna Hora which has its own local train station making it an easy hour ride from Prague.
This little Catholic church is surrounded by a cemetery. Inside is what ought to be under all the headstones. The total number of bodies stored down here is said to be more than 40,000 which is perhaps a tenth of how many warm bodies pass through here in a single year.
Just down the road about 200 meters is a former Cistercian monastery and its conjoined Philip Morris Tobacco Museum (and factory). Founded in 1158 it is the first monastery of that particular order to be built in Bohemia. In 1278 the abbot headed to the Holy Land and came back with a bit of holy souvenir: some soil from Golgotha or Skull Place. This is where Jesus was said to be crucified. The soil was sprinkled in the abbey’s cemetery instantly making it a sort of pilgrimage site for the deceased: Everyone wanted to be buried there. But cemetery space was at a premium and so the graves were recycled, you might say. Bodies were dug up and bones were moved to the Sedlec ossuary.
Kunta Hora is an interesting visit and validates the saying, "They’re only bones, they won’t hurt you; it’s the living who scare me".
And thus ends my Czech Republic Extravaganza.............!!
CZECH REPUBLIC - A DREAMER'S DREAM AND A REALIST'S ANTODOTE!
